MARK TWAIN

midnight, talking loudly. On the port side four sat under
Mrs. Miller's open port and told unclean anecdotes, in the
national yell, swore, laughed like demons, and sang. The
Captain is going to prevent these freedoms after 11:30
hereafter.

Oct. 30. There should be no first come, take choice, in
location of steamer chairs. The chair space outside of a
stateroom should be the property of the occupant. People
under our port chatter till 11—if these were our chairs we
could have tranquillity, for we retire at 9:30.

In 1894 Harpers Monthly paid me only $75 a page for
Joan of Arc.

Passed the Azores at 8.

Monday. Due at Gibraltar ten days from N.Y., three
days to Naples, then one day to Genoa.

At supper the band played Cavalleria Rusticana (the
Intermezzo) which is forever associated in my mind with
Susy. I love it better than any other, but it breaks my
heart.

Arrived at Gibraltar 7 A.M. Left at 2 P.M. A pest of
flies. Thought they did not have them in Europe.

Saw at Gibraltar Michael Benunes, our guide of 36
years ago—still the most distinguished-looking man in
that town. He took Jackson, Dan, Jack, Miss Newell, and
me, into Spain—all dead now but me, I believe.

NEVER take a promenade-deck room again, at any
price: a madhouse is preferable. Get the Captain's apart-
ment or go down cellar, and NEVER travel in an emi-
grant ship.

Dec. 7 '03. Villa Quarto, Florence. Miss Margaret
Sherry, Livy's trained nurse for the past twelve months

384