MARK TWAIN walk, and a double rank across the square in front of the Kranz. Done in three minutes. Sanding the street in front of the plain little white village church of the Capuchins—white plastered, its only ornament a statue of a monk in a niche. Officers of all breeds drifting about on business and some in black cloaks and caps with a single feather (long) sticking up, otherwise gorgeous. In other cases with much gold and a paint-brush plume, some like a tall delicate puff of steam. Long black cloaks, silver cross on them. Wagons arriving with flower wreaths. Many picturesque Hungarian costumes. Three Archdukes below on balcony. No noise of hoofs. All traffic shut off at two. Vast windows of a corner store, with people in masses behind them, balconies overflowing. People in windows dim like folk under water. All the military movements beautifully done— Knights of Malta—beautiful red uniform—a broad white cross covering breast and a gush of white plumes. Here one sees the Golden Fleece, 1431. No end of coach- men and footmen in black cocked hats and mourning. At 2:30 a long black wagon with six mourning servants —something taken out and carried in—wish I knew what it was. On this side of the middle of the square I see none but a great crowd of uniforms—no civilians, only officers. This space is fenced off by oblong double fence of soldiers. 2:40. Small procession of bare-headed monks, the head one with a white shirt and a cross. Not many smoking today. Display of mourning not great. Ladies generally in black. 2:45. Carriages passing in a continuous stream. A Cardinal in purple with two attendants arrives and enters. 366