MARK TWAIN

those vast bodies of heathen—never can in the very na-
ture of things. In all history, go back as far as you will no
nation has ever changed its religion by persuasion, but
only by compulsion—by a king's command. Kings can't
do that now and so the missionary business is played out.
Traitors to religion are of the same stuff as other traitors,
the poorest material in the camp.

And this is India! Tropical, beautiful, and just alive
with villages.

One everlasting stretch of naked men and boys plowing
the field, but not a woman or a girl—not one! Come, let
us introduce Austrian, Bavarian and French civilization,
and Christianity, right away.

"Where every prospect pleases and only man is vile."
That described India and it also describes the average
Christian.

Feb. 21. Left for Lucknow about I PJM. Hot as the
nation. The flat plains the color of pale dust, and the dust
flying. Tiffin at two at Janpur City. No doubt all these
old native grayheads remember the mutiny.

Sunday, 23d. Drove with Major and Mrs. Aylmer (i6th
Lancers) and Capt. and Mrs. Dallas, in the regimental
drag over the whole of Colin Campbell's march, and also
out to the Imam Bara.

Was dined by the United Service in the ancient and
elegant Chutter Munzil Palace (umbrella palace)—very
large—it is the Club's Sumptuous Home. In my speech
quoted what Walcott said lately in the Senate about
England.

Major Aylmer's native orderly, in uniform, brought the
invitation, riding on a picturesquely dressed camel—a
stately sight.

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