CHAPTER XXI

European Residence

MARK TWAIN and his family sailed on the
Gascogne June 6, 1891. Mrs. Clemens was last
to leave the house, the home she would never
enter again.

At Sea

June 6, 10:30 A.M. (first breakfast) went to it—then
put down for second breakfast 12:30. Before these hours,
6 to 9—you can have coffee, tea and an egg, or chop, to
stay your stomach.

One deck steward to 200,000 passengers. Began at nine
to hunt for him and pray to him—got the order to him at
10:15, at 10:30 he has not appeared, and I have retreated
from the sight of the starving family*

A woman springs a sudden reproach upon you which
provokes a hot retort—and then she will presently ask
you to apologize.

Twenty young wheelmen paying a specific sum apiece,
in charge of a personal conductor who wheels them all
over Europe and relieves them of all care and expense.

With such seas as this they could practice on these long
decks all day if they chose.

One man says they do practice, two hours after mid-
night and spin along silently like ghosts.

The strenuous insistent muffled burr or buzz of the

215