MARK TWAIN his courting before marriage must have seemed so pale and poor and la/.y compared with hers after it. Yes there was that same old gushy, sappy little drama going on before me, just in the same old soul-enchanting way with- out a change in any detail of the performance. But at last the bride tired herself out as usual, and then, as usual she cushioned her dear head under his left ear and went to sleep as contentedly as if she had been in heaven—and it's a mighty trying position for the other fellow, and makes him feel bitterly conspicuous. But now a change came—the first I had ever observed in this drama—for she began to snore. It was an immense improvement and softened your hard heart toward her at once, because it showed that her sleep was honest and not gotten up for effect, as those former sleeps were. So I gratefully added that to the long list of improvements which I had noticed in these six weeks of railroading. Lots of things have changed and all for the better. They have dry towels in the hotels now, instead of the pulpy- damp rag of former days, which shuddered you up like a cold poultice; and they have electrical buttons, now, in- stead of those crooked bell handles which always tore your hand and made you break a lot of the command- ments—all you could think of on a sudden call that way; and at table they feed you like a man and a brother, and don't bring your dinner and spread it around your plate in a mass-meeting of soap-dishes; and you have the tele- phone instead of the petrified messenger boy. And then the new light. There was nothing like it when I was on the highway before. I was in Detroit last night and for the first time saw a city where the night was as beautiful as the day; saw for the first time the place of sallow twi- light, bought at $3 a thousand feet, clusters of corruscating electric suns floating in the sky, without visible support and casting a mellow radiance upon the snow-covered 172