NOTEBOOK European coffee, however, still leaves something to be desired. November 13, 1878. Left at 10:45 for Bologna, and tried being courier for the first time. Leave the omnibus- driver a franc to bring the conductor of the train out there to me. Made him understand I wanted a first-class compartment to myself and had five in my party—for future cash. All right. Omnibus-driver also took my lug- gage into waiting-room and brought the ticket taker to me. Gave him two francs and he flew around with many winks and brought the conductor again and both winked that all was right. The former took my five through tickets and sent a fat porter to get them vised. Then allowed our tribe to pass through to the train without tickets. Found the conductor right outside on the quivive, who helped me carry my luggage, put us into a compartment and fastened the door. Presently the fat porter came with my tickets and I gave him a franc. The conductor allowed nobody to look in all the way—not even a ticket puncher. Had a mighty smooth trip of it. Gave the conductor five francs. Total cost nine francs. If I had had a courier I should have had to take care of him, pay him ten francs wages and twelve francs fare. From Rome to Florence I paid the conductor five francs and had a heap of attention. Once he kept the train wait- ing for me at a station. Am a shining success as a courier, so far, by the use of francs. Munich, December 20, 1878 Today by telegraph in the papers comes the sad news of Bayard Taylor's death yesterday afternoon in Berlin, from dropsy. I wrote him three or four days ago, con- gratulating him on his recovery. He was a very lovable man. 147