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chin—and along his jaw—full of a most noble dignity.
This person is so human—you recognize in him at once
the very highest type of man—he is a person who com-
mands instantly your respect and your homage—and lord
how sappy and gushy and chuckle-headed and theatrical
the surrounding saints and angels and Holy Families of
the other Old Masters do look in his august company.

October 29. It is the most ridiculous spectacle to see a
Virgin or a copper Apostle stuck on top of every stately
monument of the grand old "pagan" days of Rome.

Castellani today allowed us to walk off with jewelry
worth frs 1500. and never even asked our names or hotel—
insisted upon our taking it home and examining it at
our leisure—said "tomorrow is a festa—no shops open—
bring it back Saturday—no hurry."

Italians and Swiss seem to trust to the honesty of
strangers readily. We have noticed this very often.

New American artist goes to little Italian squalid vil-
lage, sits down to sketch on a three-legged camp stool.
Peasant brings oxen and addresses him—American abuses
and curses and finally appeals to his comrade (Vedder).

"What is this devil saying? Why does the scoundrel
bring his oxen here?"

"He was saying that he has brought his oxen at the
usual hour and place to water them, but if they are an
interruption he will take them away, and wait—and he
adds that your camp chair seems uncomfortable and he
will go to his house and bring you a chair, if you de-
sire it."

The Italians and French are so artistic and so kindly
that their impulse is always to assist in any way possible
an artist who is sketching.

I4S