MARK TWAIN houses as the Yankee of romance, and more cleanly than the reality. Even in the narrow crooked lanes of the old parts of the cities where the poor dwell, the children are neat and clean—much white stockings on the little girls. Legend that Charlemagne arrived at the Main with his army, chasing the Saxons, or chased by them—early in the morning—fog and could not see well—saw a deer taking her young along, judged she would seek a ford. So she did—C. crossed there and resolved to build a city which he named the ford of the Franks—Frankfort— there's an old bridge there with C's statue on it. In Frankfort, hotel chandelier with 9 burners but you had to light 8 of them in order to see the other I. Bad gas has no nationality. Students in Gottingen with dreadfully scarred faces. Here you can't tell whether a man is a Franco-Prussian war hero or merely has a university education. Street-car conductor wears bright new uniform and is as polite as—but there is nobody at home to compare his politeness with—and politeness costs so little. Our national impoliteness is not natural but acquired. It would be a curious study, how and from whom we acquired it. The bank in Hamburg was up a stable yard, apparently. If ours were as modest, they wouldn't fail so often, maybe. Bought good cigar for 2c, though my friends say I don't know a good cigar when I see one. " The lower-class women, however nicely dressed, wear nothing on the head in this hot sunshine. 136