NOTEBOOK 200 people present (forenoon) commoners of the com- moners, not a gentleman or lady—what they seem to need at St. N. is more congregation and not quite so much steeple. The German Stove 'Who is buried here?" "Nobody." "Then why the monument?" "It is not a monument. It is a stove." We had reverently removed our hats. We now put them on again. Stove 8 ft. high—female bust in a circle in the side midway—3^ ft. by 2j4—very ornamental, around the top. Huge parlor and bedroom. Silk quilts and top beds. Parlor vast—looks out on great paved space before the stately railroad station. Two red silk sofas; 4 tables; writing desk; 12 chairs. Polished floor with rugs. Three large windows; 2 large mirrors; 2 candelabra with 3 candles each against the walls; 2 with 4 each be* fore the mirrors. In Europe they use safety matches and then entrust candles to drunken men, children, idiots, etc., and yet suffer little from fires, apparently. The idea of an open light in one of our houses makes us shudder. Heard cuckoo in woods at W. May 2. Heinrich said: "How long shall I live?" The cuckoo went on cuckooing for the next 20 minutes—wherefore H. is a Methuselah, each yell meaning a year. First cuckoo I ever heard out- side of a clock. Was surprised how closely it imitated the clock—and yet of course it could never have heard a clock. The hatefulest thing in the world is a cuckoo clock. German cleanliness reaches an altitude to which we may not aspire. These peasants are as cleanly in their I3S