NOTEBOOK Egyptian chapter, and it is easy to see that he could not take up Spain after writing of the land . . . that built temples which mock at destroy- ing time and smile grimly upon our lauded little prodigies of architecture; that old land that knew all which we know now, perchance, and more; that walked in the broad highway of civilization in the gray dawn of creation, ages and ages be- fore we were born; that left the impress of ex- alted, cultivated Mind upon the eternal front of the Sphinx, to confound all scoffers who, when all the other proofs had passed away, might seek to persuade the world that imperial Egypt, in the days of her high renown, had groped in dark- ness. Washington Mark Twain returned to America to find him- self scarcely less than famous. His Aha and Tribune letters had been widely copied and were universally known. Not many Americans had traveled in those days, and they eagerly read about ancient lands. They had even read the sanctimonious drivel of certain doctors of theol- ogy who had been sent abroad by their "flocks" to see and report—what they carried with them, rather than what they found in fact. Mark Twain's letters had struck a new note. They had the ring of sincerity, truth. They destroyed sham where they found it, and they were sinfully read- able. A big Hartford publisher wanted to make a subscription book of them—the book which would be named The Innocents Abroad, or the New Pilgrim's Progress, and make his fame secure.