MARK TWAIN

William F. Church, a member of the party—a
man of orthodox views, who did not approve of
Mark Twain, his language, or his habits.

"He was the worst man I ever knew," Church
said; then added, "And the best."1

Holy Land

Sept. 17. Edged into the Holy Land proper, today.

After noonday lunch, climbed a great cone 1000 ft.
high which overlooks the ancient ruined city of Caesarea
Phillippi, Dan, and the great plain wherein are visible
some little streams—sources of the Jordan.

This place where we are encamped is beautiful with
olive groves and the fountain which is the main source of
the Jordan—we washed in it and drank of its waters. The
fountain comes from a great grotto, where the Greeks
(and the Romans afterward) worshiped the God Pan
(hence the name, Panias) and niches are carved in the
rocks still, and the Greek inscriptions. At the same place
Herod the Great erected a marble temple to commemorate
the visit of Csesar Augustus to the city and changed the
city's name to Csesarea Phillippi also.

Ccesarea Phillippi

A great massive ruined citadel of 4 acres. Ruined
arches, waterways, bridges, columns, capitols etc. every-
where. Hoofprints deep in old rocks.

This is the first place we have ever seen whose pave-
ments were trodden by Jesus Christ. Here he asked the
disciples who the people took him to be, and asked Peter
who he took him to be and Peter's confident answer
elicited that famous sentence upon which all the vast
power and importance the Church of Rome arrogates to
itself is founded: "Thou art Peter and upon this rock

letter from George H. Warner (brother of Charles Dudley
Warner) to the writer, March 14, 1911.

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