NOTEBOOK

Came down into the great Lebanon valley at noon and
rested and lunched at an old kahn. Far away on the right
the snow-spotted peak of Mt. Hermon.

Passed up the valley and camped on the lower side
under the dews of Hermon—first passing through a dirty
Arab village and visiting the tomb of Noah, of Deluge
notoriety.

Ruins of Baalbec

Broke camp at 6:30 A.M., crossed the valley and at n
reached the magnificent ruins of Baalbec. Marched about
the ruined temples and the quarries 3 or 4 hours. Found
Bullard, Mrs. Fairbanks, James, and Beach and daughter
there; met Jackson and party, and the Leary and Bond
parties arrived afterward, fagged out—then departed.

One of the fine chapters of The Innocents
is the one describing Baalbec, yet these, ap-
parently, are his only notes of the ancient city.
Very likely he carried the picture in his head
and set it forth that night in an Alta letter. He
was writing an average of three letters a week
for the Alta and the New York Tribune—long
letters. When did he find the time? In later life
he classified himself as "lazy"; the earlier facts
do not bear him out.

Rode seven hours, partly through wild, rocky scenery
and camped at ten-thirty on the banks of a pretty stream,
near a Syrian village. Two horses lame, and the others
worn out.

Sept. 14. Broke camp at 7 A.M. and made a fearful
trip through the Zeb Dana valley and the rough moun-
tains (temples carved in them) and finally along a beau-
tiful stream in a chasm, lined thick with pomegranate,
fig, olive and quince orchards, and nooned an hour at I

8?