MARK TWAIN and the Pnyx. We cared little for Hymettus and Pen- telicus. At II o'clock at night Dr. Jackson, CoL Denny, Dr. Birch and I left the ship in a boat and got set on shore outside the quarantine lines—then straggled over the hills serenaded by 100 dogs, skirted the town under a clouded moon, and in half an hour were safe beyond any chance of capture and fairly away for Athens. We could not find a road that seemed to lead in the right direction, and so, taking the tall steep mountain to the left of the Acropolis for a mark, we steered at it industriously over hills through valleys, over stony, desert places, plowed fields and vineyards, and walked fast, too, for there was little time to spare if we would get back to the ship before the treacherous day should dawn. We made the trip (stopped occasionally by savages armed with guns who rose mysteriously up out of shadows and darkness and said "Ha!" when we happened casually to be stealing grapes, and stood under the towering mas- sive walls of the ancient citadel of Athens—walls that had loomed above the heads of better men than we 1000 years before the Son of God was born in Bethlehem. It was between I and 2 o'clock—the place was silent— the gates were shut—the devil to pay. Denny tried to climb over a ruined wall—knocked down a stone—some- body shouted from within and Denny dropped! We soon roused that fellow out (the guard) and entered the ma- jestic ruin. The Propylsca, gateway to the temples of the Acropolis, is of lovely fluted columns, of white marble. All about us fragments, marble-armed chairs, bas-relief and tablaturcs, statues, etc. Grim marble faces, glancing up so suddenly out of the grass at our feet. Temple of Minerva small. 72