MARK TWAIN fruit for sale—delicious—loc buys pretty much anything and in great quantity. Californians can't understand how 10 or 250 can buy a sumptuous lunch of coffee, eggs and bread. Vine-festooned terrace concealed hills like a web— couldn't believe they were hills, except that upper trees towered too high to be on the bank level. Dark grottos, fairy harbors—tunnels, temples— columns, pillars, towers, pilasters, terraces, pyramids, mounds, domes, walls in endless confusion of vine-work— no shape, no architecture, unimitated—and all so webbed together with vines that short distances within arc only gained by glimpses—monkeys here and there—birds warbling—gorgeous-plumaged birds on the wing—para- dise itself—the imperial realm of beauty, nothing to wish for to make it perfect. The changing vistas of the river—corners and points folding backward, retreating and unveiling new wonders beyond, of towering walls of verdure, gleaming cataracts of vines—wonderful waterfalls of glittering leaves as deftly overlapping each other as the scales of a fish— a vast green wall—solid a moment, then as we advance changing and opening into Gothic windows, colonnades— all manner of quaint and charming shapes (damn the blackguard with the damaged plug hat on who is looking over my shoulder as I make these notes on the boiler deck). "Mrs. Grundy" (all in brown) damned old meddling, moralizing fool—said I was no better than I ought to be. "The choir sang the damnedest, oldest, vilest songs, such as 'Marching through Georgia,* 'When Johnnie comes Marching Home,' 'Old Dog Tray,' cjust before the Battle Mother/ etc. When they sang hymns they did well and 40