CONTENTS Page FOREWORD ix Chapter I. THE RIVER AND THE MINES I II. THE SANDWICH ISLANDS 9 III. HONOLULU 15 IV. HONOLULU TO SAN FRANCISCO 24 V. A GRIM VOYAGE TO NEW YORK 32 VI. BEGINNING A LITERARY EPOCH 55 VII. ATHENS, CONSTANTINOPLE, EPHESUS 69 VIII. SYRIA AND THE HOLY LAND 83 IX. SUPPLEMENTARY HOLY LAND NOTES 102 X. EGYPT AND HOME in XL NOTES, SAN FRANCISCO TO NEW YORK 118 XII. A TRIP TO BERMUDA 123 XIII. NOTES, LITERARY AND OTHERWISE 129 XIV. NOTES FOR A NEW BOOK 133 XV. AMERICA AGAIN 158 XVI. MISSISSIPPI RIVER, 1882 161 XVII. NOTES, 1883 167 XVIII. THE GRANT BOOK 174 XIX. TURBULENT YEARS 187 XX. WRITING "THE YANKEE" 195 XXI. EUROPEAN RESIDENCE 215 v